Benvenuti a Siena!

Ciao Readers!

Well, here I am in lovely Siena Italy (after a “short” journey involving 2 cars, 2 planes and 3 trains)!  I got in yesterday afternoon and did all I could to stay up and sleep in ’till Italy times, but alas, I was asleep before 8 and awake at 4.  Fortunately, it was a beautiful day today, which I spent trying to shake my jet lag by wandering all over the city, taking lots of photos to share with YOU….

Which brings me to two things I learned today… first, Siena is called a “hill town” because it is at the TOP of a hill!  You’d think I’d have figured that out from the context clues – but no – I just kept wondering why everyone insisted on telling me which bus to take into the city when it’s just a “measly” 2k (about 1.3 miles) walk from my apartment (at the bottom of town).  I still plan on walking to school in the morning…but I may pick up a few bus tickets – just in case….  The second thing I learned today is that my bad luck with electronics is not over (does breaking an iPad screen give you 7 years bad iPad luck?)! My very detailed “things to bring” list not withstanding, the camera cable-to-iPad connector got packed, but not the actual camera cable. So, despite taking a ton a pictures to share with you today, I have no way to post them (yes, I know, if I wasn’t such a Luddite I’d have a fancy camera phone and not an old-school camera).   From here on out I’ll be bringing my iPad in place of my camera, but for now I searched YouTube for a video that actually shows everything I walked by today with surprisingly similar light and crowd size. So let’s just pretend you’re coming with me on my walk through the city today….until next time!

Fun Fact: iPads are NOT machine-washable

Ciao Readers!  Happy (not) Daylight Savings!

If you’re thinking it’s been a while since I’ve posted, you are correct.  AND, if you’re thinking I am posting now because I may be headed off somewhere, you are two-for-two! So before (and after) I give the low-down, I have two embarrassing things (embarrassing for very different reasons) to admit.

First, I am running off to Italy for the second time this year (to Siena this time).  I guess I’m embarrassed to admit that because it sounds so privileged (don’t ya think?).  In my defense (if I need one), a trip to Italy is actually less expensive (and more delicious) than a stay at a mental health facility, so I see it as a win-win.  Also, as many of you know from past blog posts, I kinda have the miles/cheap apartments/etc. thing down to a science. Okay, enough justification – I’m going to Italy and purposely timed it to arrive in time for truffle season and specifically La Mostra del Tartufo in San Giovanni D’Asso (i.e. TRUFFLE FESTIVAL – YAY!!!).  I even found a language school that is going to take a trip to the festival (it is not reachable by train) – you can tell how serious my language studies are when I pick the school for the festival trip, not the reviews of the quality of the classes (the top rated school said “sorry” when I asked them if we could go to the festival)…

Which brings me to the second (more) embarrassing admission…  Since I planned this trip not long-ago, there’s TONS to get done/ready in a short amount of time.  The other day I was on a roll – multi-tasking like nobody’s business; I was getting my to-do list organized, charging my iPod, finding my travel documents, setting up my “out of office reply,” finding my Italy plug converters, cleaning, etc., and in the middle of all that scooped up all the laundry off the bed and threw in a load to wash….  Feeling VERY accomplished about an hour later, I decided to put the laundry in the dryer and make myself an ice cream sundae and watch the Good Place.  So, I get all the laundry out of the washing machine, and (you can tell where this is going I am sure)….there – at –  the – bottom – of – the – washer – is – MY iPAD!!!!   And in case the warning in the title of this post does not drive home the message clear enough, here is the visual:

Stay tuned for hopefully more funny, but less embarrassing (and costly) adventures!

 

 

Italians Wear Scarves

Ciao Readers and HAPPY FRIDAY! Since I am back from Italy and back to work I guess my blog will be still for a bit. But before then, I thought I’d re-blog the most-viewed post of all time (by more than 100%, though not sure why). I think I had the scarf-wearing (and confidence) down pretty well this time as two days in a row Italians approached me in the grocery store and started conversations about things in Italian, NOT English! Have a nice Spring…..until next time!

Newmexicotoitaly's avatarNew Mexico to Italy

It’s just a fact.  Italians wear scarves.  If you want to try and pass as an Italian, wear a scarf (and don’t wear white running shoes).  Not only do they wear scarves (“sciarpe,” not to be confused with “scarpe” – shoes), but they wear them “in style.”  Last time we were in Europe, we learned to tie our scarves the way that was in style back then.  It’s hard to explain, but basically you make a slip-knot and put your head through the center (see picture, below).

I went to Italy this year all prepared with many scarves packed and started my trip tying them the “euro” way we learned in ’08/’10.  Here I am my very first couple of days (I started the trip in Milan, where my plane landed – this is on the top of the Duomo):

It soon became apparent to me that wearing a…

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A Last Look at Lovely Lucca

Ciao Readers!  Happy Monday!

So, here we are at the end of my trip to Lucca (boo hoo)….  I still have so many nifty photos I haven’t posted as well as some random stories, so thought I’d do a final photo-centric wrap-up with some  sights and info from my adventure.  Enjoy:

Photos from the “Verdemura” (green walls) flower and growers festival:

Check out  the facade of the Cathedral of San Martino (building began in the 1100’s!). Notice how each column is different from the others?  Legend has it that there was a competition to design the columns for the church (these artistic competitions were common in Italy during the Renaissance) – but instead of picking a winner, the town stole and used all the designs and didn’t award a prize or pay anyone!:

This is the “famous” Torre Guingi (the one in the background with the trees growing on top of it – pretty unique feature, no?), which has 227 step to the top that I did not climb:


Remember the handmade pumpkin torteloni I bought back in the “shopping” post?  This is me turning it into a scrumptious dinner – just add butter, sage and parmesan:

One day I just wandered all over town, including down empty alleyways (always so picturesque); I happened upon this large (about 12 feet tall) piece of art made entirely from recycled cardboard, literally in the middle of nowhere….

And, finally, a peak-a-boo farewell to the sea (though technnically not in Lucca):

Thank you, Dear Readers for coming with me to New York and Italy.  Hopefully I will have more blog fodder (i.e. ADVENTURES) soon!

 

La Cucina Italiana, A Trilogy (Part III, Eating)

Ciao Readers!

Today we finish our foodie tour of Lucca (sigh).  So far we’ve covered shopping and cooking – today we simply indulge in EATING (and drinking wine – after all, it is Italy)! While Italian food is not that “difficult” to cook, there’s nothing like having it expertly prepared for you at a local restaurant (or osteria or trattoria or pizzeria).  And, of course, enjoying it over a leisurely two-hour lunch with friends (or dinner, if you can wait to eat till the restaurants open at 8:00 p.m.), just adds to the pleasure of the experience.  Since I still can’t figure out a proper way to share these experiences with you, all I can do is try and paint a picture with words (and pictures).  Join me for some of the dining-out highlights from my trip… included a leisurely lunchtime visit to Gli Orti di via Elisa with two of my lovely classmates from language school where we enjoyed an amazing antipasto platter (the little white square thing is not cheese as it appears, but baccala – perfectly prepared salt cod spread) as well as lovely half-bottles of local wine and maccheroni (the local specialty pasta as we learned from the “cooking” post) with fiore de zucca (zucchini flowers). Instead of trying to describe how wonderful the food and company were, just take a look at the experession on my face – I think it says it all.

There was also a solo visit to indulge in more grilled “polipo” at Il Cuore (actually a gourmet food shop, with a few chairs outside for eating).  I am sorry (and not) to say it put the grilled octopus from Marea in NYC to shame (as good as that was) – melt in your mouth tender and fresh from the sea.  I sat outside in a little square on a beautiful day making “yummy noises” till the very last bite of my seafood salad (and also enjoyed a plate of truffle-infused delicacies).  Add Steve and it would have been the perfect meal:

Next, while I think we both agreed the food wasn’t the best we had in Lucca, my classmate Terri (pictured holding up some fried stuffed anchovies) and I managed to finally stay out late enough one night to eat dinner out, at Ristorante L’anciua Pesce Povero.  I guess we should have realized from the “povero” (poor) in the title that at the ridiculously low price of 20 euros for 4 starters, a main dish, a half bottle of wine (each), bread, coffee, sparkling water, dessert, coffee and limoncello that we were not going to get giant plates of whole fish (“pesce”) (though we did get our mutual favorite, the pictured plate of fried anchovies).  While not as drool-worthy as other meals we shared, we agreed that we enjoyed the family-style meal (no menu), the fact that is was almost all local patrons, and each others’ company!

And, finally, no trip to Italy would be complete without the quintessential Napoletana-syle pizza (thin crust, super hot wood-fired oven).  I’m a traditionalist and stick to the margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil)  – this is the best one I had on my trip, from a nifty little pizzeria only blocks away from my apartment (which I unfortunately did not discover until the last night of my stay):

Until we eat again…..

“Another” Day by the Sea

Ciao Readers!

So, when we lived in Florence (the more times I write that the less real it seems) we took a day trip to a little town called Castiglioncello to see the ocean, which I followed with the blog post “A Day by the Sea.”  Hence the title of this post…

When you go to tourist language schools in Italy they want to make sure you have a nice time, so there are usually optional activities most afternoons.  Sometimes they are educational, sometimes cultural, sometimes culinary, and sometimes just a chance to get out and about with other students…. Wednesday’s “giro” was a drive to a little seaside town, Portovenere.  If you’re familiar with the Italian coastline (NW side), Portovenere is just a short ways from the much more famous Cinque Terre, in Liguria.  While it is an adorable little town and there are a couple of minor “sights,” including a couple of very old churches, it’s really all about the sea….

Enjoy:

“The Wanderer’s Guide to Lucca”

Ciao Readers! And happy Monday after Spring Break! We have finally made it to Italy….

The title of this post reflects both its focus, as well as the book from which I got most of the substantive information.  As you may recall, back when we lived in Florence (was that real?!), we took a day trip here and had a thoroughly lovely time.  Now I have 10 days in which to really explore this place…

Lucca is mainly known for two things – primarily, its wall; secondly, Puccini.  Apparently there have been 3 sets of walls built around Lucca, dating back to Roman times;  the current wall, which completely circles the town, was built from 1550 to 1650, using much of the town’s resources (human and economic) for 100 years!   Either it was money and time well-spent or wasted, depending on your perspective – no one ever tried to bombard the town again (Pisa had in the past).  Of course, the walls did little to protect Lucca from “modern” warfare, and Napoleon took over in the early 1800’s and “gifted” the city to his sister, Elisa.  Now the wall basically serves one perfect function – THE town park where everyone bikes and jogs and partakes in the lovely Italian ritual known as the “Passeggiata” (ambling, chatting, and basically passing the time).  I spent my first two days here doing my own passeggiata – come along with me:

In addition to the lovely wall, the entire town has lots of cool old architecture, complete with more churches than you can count, and relaxing little bistros and shops now occupying the old historical buildings.  I am sure I will learn more and post some specifics, but for now, take a wander with me around Lucca (saving my stop at the truffle store to taste and shop for a future post about food), ending at the picturersque building that is my school (which I start tomorrow/today when this posts):

Thanks for joining me!