All posts in category Italy, here we come!

Italy as a Buddhist Meditation (or “the Green Day concert that wasn’t”)

Interesting title, yes? I will try to explain…

Sunday we went to Bologna for the I-Day Festival, with our favorite band headlining – Green Day. I had bought the tickets online months ago (95 euros) and even talked about it in an earlier blog. This was a big deal to us and we had been looking forward to it since before we moved here (imagine your own all-time favorite – the Beatles or the Boss or Lada Gaga). Here’s what it took to go to the festival: 1) since the last train back from Bologna leaves about the time Green Day was to take the stage, we had to figure out how to get home (couldn’t stay overnight as Steve had work in the morning), so 2) we decided to rent a car (98 euros, plus gas and tolls); 3) to get the car we left home a little after 8:30 a.m. and walked 40 minutes to the bus station, took a bus (12 euros) to the Florence airport, then took the shuttle bus to the rental car place (will be repeating in reverse to return); 4) Steve bravely navigated us to the outskirts of Bologna where we promptly got lost and 5) in my baby-Italian eventually got directions from some nice pedestrians. We made it to the fair grounds about 1:00.

There was already quite the line of folks waiting to stake out a good spot on the lawn (all open seating). Green Day wasn’t scheduled to appear until about 9:00 (there were earlier bands), so we had planned to go into town on a bus to have lunch and go to my (still) favorite gelateria – La Sorbetteria. At this point I’ll make the long story shorter – after unsuccessfully trying to get into town on a bus, we gave up and decided just to go into the fair grounds and pay too much for crumby fair food. After quite a wait in line I was reminded that some bathrooms (in this case porta-potties) in Europe are still the hole-in-the-floor kind (ACK!).

MUCH to our surprise, the fair grounds were huge, and had an impressive array of (normally priced) food selections from across the globe. There was sushi and African food and Indian food, and of course, many varieties of Italian food, to name a few (photo, below). We chose a seafood restaurant (yes, they pretty much built an entire restaurant in a huge tent) and had the most delicious, typically leisurely (2 hour) Italian meal. Never in a million years did I expect to get to eat mussels in a garlic and white wine broth and the yummiest assortment of fried seafood (“frito misto,” pictured below) at a Green Day concert! So far, so good (well, after the bathroom part)…

At about 5:00, after seeing how many people had entered the actual concert area, we decided we’d better go stake out a spot and hunker down until Green Day arrived. Just staking out a place was its own cultural experience, but there we were – the anticipation building. From the number of Green Day t-shirts in the massive crowd (pictured below), it was apparent we were among fellow fans (we had also spotted shirts on the bus and in the airport in Florence). From the title of this post, you already know where this is going, but that’s almost beside the point – it’s what happened after that that’s the real moral of the story.

At about 7:30 (after Social Distortion left the stage), someone came out and matter-of-factly announced (I wasn’t sure I was understanding correctly, but I was) that the lead singer of Green Day was ill, the concert was cancelled and please exit to your left. Steve and I were in shock – what the heck?!?!? Were they serious?!?!?! Was this a joke?!?!?! After all the time and effort and expense it took to get here?!?!?! And then it happened – we expected to look around at 20,000 other upset people, all angry and disappointed (and maybe an overturned porta potty or two) – but everyone else looked….fine. More than fine – they looked to be in the same happy, festival-going mood they were in 5 minutes earlier. Wow. It was a little hard to comprehend….

And then we wondered – how could we let ourselves be angry and upset and disappointed when everyone else looked so nonplussed? We couldn’t. And that is how Italy is a form of Buddhist mediation – teaching by example how to let go of attachment and expectation and suffering, and just going with the universe as it unfolds.

Ciao.

4 Comments

by Newmexicotoitaly on September 4, 2012 • Permalink

Posted in Art, Culture Shock, Food, Italy, here we come!

Tagged Bologna, Buddhist meditation, frito misto, Green Day, I-Day Festival

Posted by Newmexicotoitaly on September 4, 2012

https://newmexicotoitaly.com/2012/09/04/italy-as-a-buddhist-meditation-or-the-green-day-concert-that-wasnt/

“Piano, Piano”

Ciao Readers!

I had mentioned this saying (“piano, piano”) in a post last week and a few people e-mailed or commented asking me what it means. I thought I would take this opportunity to explain, as well as share how it plays out in our adjustment here in Italy. “Piano, piano” basically means “slowly” or that everything will happen in due course. A “piano” is actually a floor of a building – like “piano 3” – so it more literally means “step by step.” When I was in school in Bologna and I would get frustrated at not picking up a concept right away, my teachers would advise “piano, piano.” This encapsulates the approach you want to take here in order to remain upbeat as opposed to exasperated.

A few days ago, I have to admit I was getting frustrated and had fleeting thoughts of “what the heck were we thinking?!?!” Some of the things that I was letting bug me:

The electricity/ a/c situation – we have been here over 2 weeks and the electrician and a/c repair man are still out for ferie. At first I admired the vacation mindset here, but after 2 weeks with intermittent a/c (which, if I haven’t explained, are individual units limited to certain rooms; the rest of the house will remain a sauna regardless), and a fear of blowing out my remaining mini computer, the charm has started to wear…

Our packages – it is still a daily surprise 1) if any packages are going to arrive that day, and 2) if we are going to have to pay for them to be delivered. So far twice we have had identical packages come (the latest were boxes for pictures) and we have been charged for one, but not its twin. Every time a new package is on its way, customs in Milan either calls our realtor, calls here, or just mails me forms to fill-out. Each time its a different customs person and they each seem to have different ideas what goes on the forms and whether or not the box will cost to deliver. So far we have filled out forms on about 12 boxes, 8 have come, and none for the past few days. Each arrive in various states of squashed/smashed, but I was actually expecting that.

The paperwork – you seriously have to do more paperwork for everything here. I can’t think of one transaction that has taken a single form. From changing over the gas, to getting a pay-as-you-go cell phone, to sending mail. And don’t even ask about opening a bank account – literally 2+ hours and about 20 signatures (the lawyer in me is aghast that I am signing all of this stuff I really can’t read). On an entirely other level is immigration – though from what I know the US immigration process is no picnic either.

“Otherness” – it’s an interesting lesson to be the outsider (“stranieri”). I remember when we were traveling in small towns in Japan, sometimes people would literally cross over to the other side of the street when they saw us coming; once they even refused to get into an elevator with us. I suppose that is how we treat certain groups in the U.S. Here it is not that stark, but the fact that I can’t communicate well is frustrating. I think to the unobservant, lack of communication and lack of intelligence become one in the same (think about Stephen Hawking without his talking keyboard). Several times here I have completely understood what was going on (like why our wifi wasn’t working), but my inability to communicate effectively had people thinking I was just dumb. These are a few of our many challenges/frustrations.

However, today was a new day, approached with the “piano, piano” frame of mind. Our Sky tv box (and lots of cables, cards, usb key, etc.) came today – complete with installation instructions (yes, of course in Italian only). At first I was exasperated – giving up hope that I could manage to complete my first cable tv installation with only Italian instructions. But ya know what? Steve and I laid all the pieces out, and between the photos in the instruction manual (of a completely differently configured box), my few words of Italian, and some new-found patience, I magically accomplished installing Sky tv (again, YAY me!). We followed this accomplishment with a leisurely lunch out and then found the local public pool and passed the afternoon in sweet relief from the heat. No boxes came, a gas contract came which I can’t make out, and our other a/c has joined in making that horrific noise, but the tone of the day was different. I feel relaxed. It’ll all work itself out. I recall “what the heck” we were thinking. As they say, “piano, piano”…

5 Comments

by Newmexicotoitaly on August 27, 2012 • Permalink

Posted in Culture Shock, Italy, here we come!, Learning the Language

Tagged Italian bureaucracy, otherness, piano piano, Sky tv

Posted by Newmexicotoitaly on August 27, 2012

https://newmexicotoitaly.com/2012/08/27/piano-piano/

Membership (to the Uffizi) has its Privileges

Ciao Tutti!

As I have mentioned in a previous post, we became members of the Uffizi (Amici degli Uffizi). As I have not mentioned in a previous post, we have been “popping in” on some of the world’s greatest art in between the projects and appointments. That sounds so weird – but we have literally been “popping in” – just saying “Ciao” to Michelangelo’s David (at L’Accademia) and Botticelli’s Birth of Venus (at the Uffizi). The Uffizi cards are too cool! Not only do we walk past the long lines of folks without reservations (photo below), but also past the shorter lines of those with the knowledge/foresight to make reservations. We literally just walk right up to the front, flash our cards, and get let in! At the Accademia they opened the rope blocking the front door for us, which Steve likened to being super VIP’s at some swank night club. I have to admit I felt many eyes on us today as we bypassed the pictured line and walked right in!

It’s a little surreal. I remember the first time I saw these amazing works of art I stayed and stared – thinking it might be my only chance to ever see them. That was 2006, and as Steve confirmed, not in a million years did he think at that time we would be living here (though I am guessing those thoughts at least entered my head). Now, in stark contrast, we just “pop in,” knowing we can come back and view the other pieces at our leisure (and in cooler weather – it’s even HOT in the museums!). I have decided to just try and absorb a few pieces a visit. Today a piece I have never seen before caught my attention, as much for its name as for the art itself – “Saint Nicholas Resurrecting Youths who had been Pickled” (by Gentile da Fabriano, 1425) (yes, that says “pickled,” not a type-o). You can read the tale here. No photos are allowed in the museums, though they do have a realistic (not) replica of David in the courtyard for photo purposes (below). I am close to having tried enough gelato for a full review post…close….

3 Comments

by Newmexicotoitaly on August 23, 2012 • Permalink

Posted in Art, Italy, here we come!

Tagged Amici degli Uffici, Botticelli's "Birth of Venus", L'Accademia, Michelangelo's David, Saint Nicholas, Uffizi

Posted by Newmexicotoitaly on August 23, 2012

https://newmexicotoitaly.com/2012/08/23/membership-to-the-uffizi-has-its-privileges/

Italians Take Real Vacations

Ciao Tutti!

We have arrived (only a little worse for wear) and are getting settled in our new Italian home! I am eager to share our many exploits as well as the hurdles and good fortune we had on our way here and over this first week, but I am still gathering my thoughts. So, in the meantime, I thought I would share with you one large cultural difference we have experienced from arrival – the Italian vacation.

Italians seriously know how to go on vacation. And they all go in August. They call it “ferie,” which from what I have gathered means “personal holiday.” And when I say they go on vacation, I mean vacation; not what we Americans consider vacation (lap top, cell phone, one week tops). Folks that own shops close them – for weeks at a time. They just hang a sign and get out of town, lost business be damned. I would say about 1/2 the restaurants and more than 3/4 of the shops in our neighborhood are closed for all or part of August (lest you worry, our local gelateria is open). And everyone else just chooses not to exist. For example, our main realtor and the owners of our apartment are on vacation, which means you can’t call them (even though our electricity is on the fritz) and everything that needs to be dealt with can (i.e. will) wait until vacation is over. This is not ideal for us trying to set-up our new home, but I think it’s GREAT! Imagine getting to check-out for 2 – 4 weeks and no one thinking it was anything but normal and expected! On top of “ferie,” today is Ferragosto – an official national holiday when everything is closed (a good excuse to take a break and blog to you!).

I took a walk around our neighborhood the other morning and shot these pics of the many varieties of “gone on vacation” signs:

2 Comments

by Newmexicotoitaly on August 15, 2012 • Permalink

Posted in Culture Shock, Italy, here we come!

Tagged ferie, ferragosto, italian vacations

Posted by Newmexicotoitaly on August 15, 2012

https://newmexicotoitaly.com/2012/08/15/italians-take-real-vacations/

Final Countdown, Minor Meltdown

Ciao Readers!

As recently as 2 days ago, my final day at the law school, I was still remarkably calm and collected – as if I move to a foreign country everyday. Despite a crazy-busy week filled with more cat-moving drama, the sale of my car, and possibly my last-ever court appearance, I ended the week on a mellow note. I walked around the building, said my goodbyes, and drove off into the sunset. I was pretty proud of myself. People were commenting how they’d be much more stressed in my position. But not me – I’m cool as a cucumber. Well, until now….

Okay, NOW it is really dawning on me. It’s gone from being exciting, to surreal, to ever-so-real. We are moving to Italy a week from Thursday!!! Seriously!

I am writing this post to try and help process my thoughts and feelings, but I think they are too jumbled and intense and varied to make much sense of. Overall, there is a powerful sense of impending displacement – of time and place and people and comfort and familiarity. (And the more concrete dread of the actual obstacle-course trip itself)

While there’s still a little stuff left here and there, most of our household has been sold or given away or packed. We’ve lived in this house for 18 years. It doesn’t look right this empty – as if the “home” part has been packed up. I wonder if we will ever live in this house again…

I continue to have lunches with friends and stubbornly continue to refuse to say “goodbye.” After all, in this day of Skype and e-mail, there really is no such thing as “goodbye” – is there? And, if I’m being honest, I am just no good at the mushy stuff. But know I’ll miss the spontaneous deep conversations in the hallway at law school, Saturdays at meditation, and long lunches to catch up and vent and just be. The open-ended guest-floor invitation is my solace.

It’s the first weekend of the Olympics; Italy is doing well in the medal count and was featured as having the most stylish opening ceremony uniforms; I feel a weird sense of pride…

4 Comments

by Newmexicotoitaly on July 29, 2012 • Permalink

Posted in Italy, here we come!

Tagged moving to a foreign country, moving to Italy

Posted by Newmexicotoitaly on July 29, 2012

https://newmexicotoitaly.com/2012/07/29/final-countdown-minor-meltdown/

Italy Update

Ciao Readers! I have missed you! There’s been a gelato-sized empty space since I have had to put this blog on hold. But, I think enough has happened over the past few weeks to warrant an update…

When we left our story, we were getting us and our cats and our pared-down stuff ready for our adventure. We spoke a bit about red-tape and the challenges of moving to a foreign country. Even then, with all my stories about airline debacles and forbidden mail, I didn’t know the half of it! So, let me sum up…

Getting our cats “Italy approved” turned out to be even more of a project than we expected. AND, a MUCH more expensive prospect than we could have ever guessed. When I wrote to one fellow expat/blogger about the ordeal and the cost ($1,300+ so far) she was in shock – believing that MUST be a type-o! Alas, I wish I could say it was, but it was not. I am still not certain what all was involved as Steve took on the tasks of two days of vet visits, but basically both cats got tested for any disease any cat could ever get, got updated shots and (unfortunately) some dental work one of the cats needed. To add insult to injury, Sebastian (our larger, furrier cat) needed a haircut so he won’t swelter in his little carrier and instead of bringing him to a proper groomer we had the vet take care of that as well. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words:

Now, if you think getting the cats to Italy is the biggest hurdle, you would sadly not be correct. To make a VERY long story short, last Wednesday and Thursday we fully believed some visa issues we are having could not possibly be worked out in time for our departure. We already came up with a “plan B” (moving to Hawaii). When I last left off writing, I had NO idea how many more hoops we had to jump through and how much sooner we should have snapped. To put it in the words of the brusk woman on the other end of the phone at the Italian consulate in L.A. “What were you thinking?!?!?!” In any case, I feel a certain amount of superstition about saying too much as this story is still in progress. When Steve returns from his one-day round-trip flight to L.A. to go to the consulate in person next week, I’ll write more…

Other than that, our house continues to be a clown car of never-ending stuff. Some of it is pretty humorous (like the notebook I kept in high school in which I wrote all of the inappropriate things my teachers said in class), and some of it is pretty age-revealing (college papers typed on old-fashioned typewriters, white-out spots and all). I have enjoyed giving away and selling more stuff than I ever knew we had, except my bike which kinda made me sad. On a positive note, I met a college student who just spent a semester in Rome and thus got to converse in Italian for the first time in quite a while. (My last Skype class is 4th of July, but haven’t had one since Memorial day).

I suppose the final thing of note that has happened since you last joined me are my “last” lunches with folks. I have been going to lunch with old friends and colleagues on Thursdays (only day I can manage to get out of the law school long enough) and they are majorly bittersweet. I seriously hope everyone will take us up on our offer of our very cool “guest floor” and thus prove none of those lunches to actually be “final.” And, yes, I am sure we will eventually make our way back here to our house in Albuquerque….

A presto!

6 Comments

by Newmexicotoitaly on July 1, 2012 • Permalink

Posted in Italy, here we come!

Tagged italian consulate, moving cats to italy, moving to a foreign country, moving to Italy, speaking italian, visas

Posted by Newmexicotoitaly on July 1, 2012

https://newmexicotoitaly.com/2012/07/01/italy-update/

Thank You (and taking a short hiatus)

Greetings Readers! Thank you SO very much for checking out my blog and for your comments these last couple of months – especially your comments and e-mails about what I should be when I grow up! (I think a “do Florence with a local” tour business is starting to formulate in my head….I’ve already registered “atasteofflorence.com”….stay tuned!)

I can’t believe how much I am enjoying writing this blog, but realized that at this point I don’t have many new stories to tell about moving to Italy (and I doubt you want to hear about “what I did at work today”), AND I have to work full-time while finishing getting ready for this big move, so here’s the plan….

I am going to take a brief hiatus until shortly before our move. I’ll post occasionally if I get inspired and at the end of July before we leave for Italy. When I come back on in full in Italy in August, I promise to fill this site with many amusing (“divertente”) stories and LOTS more pictures (I wish I would have known I was starting a blog earlier, I would have carried my camera everywhere in Italy!). So you don’t need to keep checking back, if you are not already “following” this blog, click on the box to the right to do so (and look for the confirmation e-mail) and you will get a notification when I start posting again.

THANK YOU for reading and I look forward to posting again soon. Ciao for now!