Flying with Pets

So, moving to Italy isn’t only a fairytale about delicious food, the perfect cappuccino and beautiful art.  There’s the “real” side of what this adventure involves as well.  This is a post about one of the less-glamorous aspects….

It seems that getting our cats to Italy is a bigger project than getting us there!  We have been working on this off and on for the past couple of months, and in earnest for several days in a row.  There seriously aren’t words to convey the exasperation we are both feeling at this point…

Surprisingly, getting the cats “Italy-approved” doesn’t seem to be that big a task (we haven’t done it yet, so I am knocking on wood as I say this, as well as knocking on a table leg [the Italian equivalent]).  They need a check-up, to be micro-chipped (they are), basic shots and a veterinary certificate (and a size-appropriate pet kennel).  What has become a HUGE project is finding a kosher way to fly them there without killing them.  I really can’t go through everything we’ve gone through to try and get the right tickets on a pet-friendly airline – in part because my head will explode if I have to recount the entire ordeal, and in part because I don’t want you to either fall asleep or for YOUR head to explode (depending on your natural tendency).  To sum up:

I had to book my ticket separately from Steve because while his school will reimburse his ticket, they will not reimburse mine, and since they’re running about $1700 right now for the summer, I needed to use my American Airlines air miles.   What I learned, though, was that American does not let cats on board to Europe (despite being told it was okay, booking the ticket, having to cancel the ticket, and so on)  AND you cannot fly with them in cargo (which we didn’t want to do anyway) if the weather IS or IS FORECAST to be 84 degrees or higher (29 celsius) at any point on the trip (which pretty much makes leaving Albuquerque in early August impossible).  To make my VERY LONG story short (well, shorter), after 2 days on hold, online, etc., I finally got the right person on the other end (he rocks!) who told me Iberia air DOES let cats on-board AND they are “one world” partners with American, so I can book with miles (which he did for me).  Of course, there are a limited number of pets allowed on board, so you have to get them reservations as well (175 euros).  So, me and one cat were finally set.

Steve’s ordeal was even longer and more convoluted, and as I write this we have close to $5,000.00 of cancelled airfare on our credit card that supposedly will be credited.  To try and sum up – he tried booking on United (he was doing this after I learned American would NOT work, before I discovered Iberia would), who claims (both online and on the phone) to allow pets on board to Europe; Steve booked the ticket and then called to add the cat, they said he couldn’t, he cancelled the ticket.   Come to find out – and let me help anyone here who ever hopes to fly to Italy with a pet – Iberia air (with a stop in Madrid) is about the ONLY way to get this done.   Seems simple enough once we figured this out (relatively speaking), so Steve calls Iberia, and without rehashing the details, TWICE gets booked (without them explaining) on one of their codeshares with American (who, as you recall, does NOT allow the cat on board).  It is only on Iberia aircraft itself that you can have the pets.  Anyway, three bookings and an entire day of calls and being on hold later, Steve is now booked on 2 of the same 3 legs to Italy as I, and the other cat is welcome (or so we believe at this point – stay tuned).

PLEASE, if you ever know anyone trying to get to Italy with a pet, send them to this post, cause I hate for other people’s heads to have to explode!  Onward and forward…

The Perfect Cappuccino

I am not a coffee drinker (in New Mexico).   I actually went for 40 years without drinking a cup of coffee (until our first trip to Italy).  I never understood why people were always drinking coffee, there are coffee makers in every office, Starbucks on every block (okay, I still don’t totally get that one).  I was pretty certain I would live out my days never having drunk a cup of coffee.  Then, I went to Italy…

In Italy, coffee is an art form.  And not one of those fancy Michelangelo, wait-in-line for hours art forms – an art form widely available to the masses (starting at about .80 euro).

At the school in Bologna, every day we had a (working) break between classes where all the students and teachers would go to the bar and have a beverage (and perhaps a pastry or panino) and practice our Italian by just having casual conversations (okay, ONCE in a while, we would break into English, but only to get some matter of great importance dealt with, and never in ear-shot of the teachers).  As an aside – “bar” in Italy is not what you think of when you hear “bar” in the U.S. – on literally every block there is at least one bar, and while most of them do serve alcohol of some sort, they all serve coffee beverages and some small snacks (pastries and/or panini).  The bars open very early and they are THE place to stop for breakfast (a coffee drink and pastry is the norm).   Anyway, back to our class trips to the bar…

I decided that every day I would try a different beverage – aqua frizzante, tè, caffe macchiato, etc.  The caffe macchiato was yummy – and my first serious foray into the coffee beverage selections.  After that, I tried a old-fashioned caffe, and my taste-testing was on a roll.  But then I had a cappuccino.  And the next day…I had another cappuccino.  And the next day… (you can see where this is going).  Seriously, I have no idea what they do that is so special, but the coffee, and especially the cappuccino, in Italy are like no coffee-based beverage I have ever had in the U.S.  Here, I think the coffee is bitter and has an after-taste; in Italy, the coffee is smooth as silk, and sweet, and…DIVINE!

And cappuccino…well…beyond divine!  A properly made cappuccino is actually 1/3 espresso, 1/3 steamed milk, topped with 1/3 foamy milk.   The top is a beautiful foam, sometimes enhanced by decorative swirling, or a creative dusting of coca powder.   I looked forward to this little treat every day and after I discovered them I had one pretty much daily until I left (though I still think in volume I had more gelato).  I have to admit, I missed cappuccino when I got back so much that I went to a cooking store here and bought a little hand-held milk foamer (works pretty well!).  (We had already gotten a “nespresso” machine on ebay after Steve tried one the last time we visited Italy).  Now I can simulate, but by no means replicate, the wonder that is an Italian-made cappuccino. (As a cultural aside, while other caffe drinks are consumed throughout the day, cappuccino are reserved for before noon).

If you think Starbucks has a comprehensive selection, almost any bar in Italy can make any number of coffee drinks, including the “basic” caffe (espresso) to caffe macchiato (espresso with a splash of milk), caffe corretto (“correct coffee” – espresso with a drop of liquor), and yes, even caffee Americano (espresso with lots of water). For a fairly complete list and description of types of coffee you can order at an Italian bar go to: http://www.yourguidetoitaly.com/types-of-italian-coffee.html.  Salute!

The Art of Florence

I actually don’t think I’ve mentioned yet the fact that we are moving to one of THE most beautiful and art-filled cities in the world!   Florence is amazing, and I’d like to share just a little taste of it with you (and would love to show you all of this cool stuff in person in the near future)…

It’s actually been difficult writing this post because I know there are so many websites and books on the art of Florence and I don’t intend on becoming an encyclopedia or repeating what you can read elsewhere here.  Instead, I am going to point out a few cool things and our experience with them.

Boboli Gardens – when we were in Italy the very first time we went to these gardens (which cover about 11 acres).  They are AMAZING!  Not only are the flora part of the gardens beautiful, but all around you are really old statues, fountains and sculptures.  To learn more/see some photos:  http://www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/boboli_garden.html. We were having such a good time walking around the gardens that we seriously discussed blowing off our reservation to L’Accademia (the museum where Michelangelo’s “David” is) (side note – it is ALWAYS a good idea to buy tickets and make reservations online for all museums in Italy, lest you waste a couple of hours standing in line).  We probably would have, if it weren’t for the two guys from San Fransisco we met on our train ride to Florence (thanks, guys, whoever you are!).  They went on and on AND on about how amazing the David is – how no photos can do it justice, how it’s something you MUST experience, etc.  After a review like that we figured we’d better go (at the time we were thinking it might be our only opportunity – who knew!).   So, we left the beautiful gardens, and went to L’Accademia to see:

Michelangelo’s David – the 2 guys from San Fransisco did NOT exaggerate – this is seriously one of the most impressive pieces of art EVER!  Before we went to Italy I was not much of a museum person, but this experience truly changed that.  Every tiny muscle fiber on David is sculpted to life – and as legend has it, from a piece of marble that all other sculptors of the day (including DaVinci) found to be sub-par.   If you come to visit (or are in Florence), promise me you will go see this – you will be awestruck!  They don’t let you photograph inside, but here is a link to photos/more info: http://www.tickitaly.com/galleries/accademia.php

Ponte Vecchio – this is the oldest surviving bridge in Florence (circa 1345), and it is gorgeous!  The other bridges were all bombed to bits during World War II by Hitler’s troops.  Depending on the source, story has it that Hitler purposely let the Ponte Vecchio alone as it was so beautiful (as surreal as it seems, Hitler was an art aficionado).  We had our picture taken in front of it, and we purchased a small water-color from the gentleman below (I still can’t wrap my brain around the fact that we are basically moving to the piece of art that’s been hanging on our living room wall!):

The Uffizi, starring Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus” – The Uffizi is an incredible museum with countless works of art by famous artists.  The piece that spoke to me the loudest (and forced me to continue to return and stare), was Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus.”   This painting, from approximately 1486, is a masterpiece of the Renaissance and marks a divergence from the usual Italian art subject – Catholic religious images.  As with “David,”  a photo cannot do this piece of work justice – both in beauty as well as size (unlike the Mona Lisa, which is tiny, this is huge) – you will just have to come see it for yourself!

And now the coolest part (for us)….  I got us a family membership card to the museums of Florence which lets us in to all of the places described here, plus tons more, for the year without having to wait in line – we just walk up to the members’ entrance!   You can read more about the “Friends of the Uffizi” here:  http://www.amicidegliuffizi.it/become_a_member.aspx.   I can’t wait to put that card to good use!